And stop.... I decided that I have been trying to race along with an uber heavy kayak (120 days of food does that) so much so even my paddle has started to bend into the stroke position. I have lost quite a bit of weight after about only 1500km (ish).  

I have about 3 max days until Iquitos and the Rio Amazonia starts in 20km from here. I should declare now that it is my intention (providing I can repair my Kayak - minor) that I want to see how far I can get down the Rio Amazonia unsupported and unassisted. This is not important, as just completing a solo journey from Saneraza is good enough for me and just getting to the end point would be an achievement. So much can prevent a solo unassisted and unsupported travel (as i know from Antarctica) but in reality the journey so far (solo) has been testing and checking equipment, supplies and routines. I want to do this as a challenge for the next step to what I hope to be my next adventure that will take another leap in the 'challenging the boundaries' adventure. 

Today (my day off) will be used to repair, eat, sleep and sleep and eat and eat some more...in fact by the time I finished this post and after popping by taxi to Iquitos, I am going to make it 2 days rest and eating. I have lost quite a bit of weight, more than my liking over the last 6 weeks ... so I will use this opportunity to eat. 

The last week and a half I have easily done 40-50km, well until its due a thunderstorm when the temperature and humidity spikes and well at this point I cant paddle ( or shouldn't try to as the amount of energy used spikes as well). In reality though, i have been doing over the 50km mark daily in real paddle km - a far cry from the planned 25km a day. 

The (solo) journey has been eventful already and well there is defiantly a story to tell

already (so hoping to get to the end). It will be a long old slog and the next 3800km (ish) will be eventful too. If i average the 50 odd km then i should be near the end in 100 days (or less)....  but I am hoping to find a good quiet beach (or two) further down the line that I can spend a day on ....

But, what is it like? Well, so far, from what I can see it is very family orientated - large families. Whole families go out fishing, together, for food (fish). I have seen many children running along the beach beside their mother and father who fish and others in the boat helping at all ages. Children learn to throw a net by practicing on the shore with a smaller one.... and repeatedly trying again determined to get it right. 

Folks know when a stranger is 'in town' and one (or more) will come and find out the story. I have been stopped so many times along the way and then see folks pass the message along through calls, word of mouth and gestures. They are protective and rightly so, with so many children, who wouldn't be. All communities are the same and should be. 

English is a no go, even though children (and therefore adults) even on the river and high in the mountains learn English in school. I love this and even though my Spanish is very limited, I have to use every word (and gesture) that I know, even though some will laugh at my usage and having been told that the word for 'little' is very similar to a rude word!!! (I wonder how often I have got this wrong). But I try and I guess that goes a long way - frustrating that it is as I want to talk, interact and listen to so much more. 

The community whistles and signals are the hidden communication that is repeated and have changed along the river - almost like the dialects in the UK and around the world. Some have initially been warning signals that dissipate as they become aware that I am a solo female - luckily. Interestingly here the female has a very strong role especially in villages (the home) and especially the women in the boats who approach, beam when they see that I am a female (moreso after the initial shock look).

Music too (my love) plays a significant role here in Peru. Music is everywhere and is blasted around whether in the streets or on the river. It makes for a very happy and joyful place to be .... and i have to say, this continues through the night cause these folks know how to party alllll night long. As I write sitting on a bench in the town square, without an announcement - music has started and there appears to be a dance group setting up to present. I think I have said before, although I have only heard sound system music so far, I have been reassured that 'live' music is still very much alive. There is a traditional theme though to the music, a certain drum beat that is fantastic. 

I have to say, I love this stripped back culture

(even though everyone have phones) - it does take me back to pre internet (although internet is here - the strength of signal is such that folks don't wander down the streets whether in villages or town looking at the phone). 

Bright clothes, red, blue and white with pockets of orange and green throughout. There is clearly a political undertone that i am not privy to (dont understand and in short don't want to either). 

As I have progressed through the country, there have been significant changes different but the same. I have to say it was great to see even in the little river communities joined only by the river celebrating Perus independence. I have to say that Peru has so much potential and is rich in so many ways - this richness could be more widely spread - but would that change the other richness of the country. 

Having seen the light where in years before , I hankered after what I thought was the better life of parties, new car and clothes in a very disposable way, today, having my home on my back (or now in a kayak) seeing and experiencing the world outside of the town and city life, I couldn't be happier. Long gone are the days of working day and night, weekends and holidays and I am defiantly a better person (personally) for it - I recognise that for many years I gave myself to others too much that somehow I lost myself in it. For some it would be a sign of selfishness but a work life balance that many speak about is true. Ultimately I know, that this could be the last of my big adventures for a while but I have no regrets at all and will make every effort to continue this life that I am currently leading that I hope (and have been told) has made impact on other peoples lives too. The world is huge and so much more to explore, I wish that others would join me on this way of life. 

The road (or river) ahead may have potential difficulties (I hope not) and so I reflect whilst on my couple of days rest - hence why I have put some thoughts down on paper. I have only 10 days max in Peru and it has been a journey (a great one) that I would never have had if I remained in a 6 am to

1am, 7 days a week job that I loved and was so passionate about. But, no matter what, I have no regrets at all. 

'Dont put off tomorrow what you can do today'......

(Backup) Into the jungle ...

It certainly was a great moment .... as we headed through the last of the rapids (well with a very sad 'ish' attached! - there were a couple of 'new' class 2's to do that wern't on the map!). 

By this stage we were on the last supported stage - the start of the Pongos (the place that the river cuts through the mountains)! Although as I write this in Santa Maria De Nieva with the solo part near, my secondary school Geography lessons just burst into life! The pongos by nature are very remote - very remote. 

But... and there is a big but too..... from the river - it is very much different to the imagination and snippets of film from all of those years ago! 

From the river, I have seen just a few birds fly overhead or in the sky. Its quieter too - i was expecting a deafning call of birds and high pitch buzz of grasshopper type calls ... but at this stage -the huge moving and bubbling mass of the river makes more noise as do the folks working on the banks.

The homes have changed as we moved further along. The mud houses of the mountains have moved to

those of bamboo or wood with traditional vegetation roofs, until of course, large towns buldlings of brick and glass come together. 

Oh and there has been much music heard along the banks as we pass....but through massive sound

Blasting hifi speakers.  I have been assured that the traditional music is still very much alive .... as i hope that electronic music doesn't destroy the traditional live music that I know and love. 

Oh, and there is no hot water in hotels 😳..... cold water yes...but I guess thats just a British expectation.... and only an observation!!

The last few days, we have had an interpreter along with us to guide us through the river villages and communities  of the Rio Maranon. This, has been a privilege in so many ways. There is more to say here.. much much more... such as what was behind this photo...

Finally the wonderful folks of the river really know how to party.... and I mean .... all night /weekend rave style!! 

(Backup) Into the jungle ...

It certainly was a great moment .... as we headed through the last of the rapids (well with a very sad 'ish' attached! - there were a couple of 'new' class 2's to do that wern't on the map!). 

By this stage we were on the last supported stage - the start of the Pongos (the place that the river cuts through the mountains)! Although as I write this in Santa Maria De Nieva with the solo part near, my secondary school Geography lessons just burst into life! The pongos by nature are very remote - very remote. 

But... and there is a big but too..... from the river - it is very much different to the imagination and snippets of film from all of those years ago! 

From the river, I have seen just a few birds fly overhead or in the sky. Its quieter too - i was expecting a deafning call of birds and high pitch buzz of grasshopper type calls ... but at this stage -the huge moving and bubbling mass of the river makes more noise as do the folks working on the banks.

The homes have changed as we moved further along. The mud houses of the mountains have moved to

those of bamboo or wood with traditional vegetation roofs, until of course, large towns buldlings of brick and glass come together. 

Oh and there has been much music heard along the banks as we pass....but through massive sound

Blasting hifi speakers.  I have been assured that the traditional music is still very much alive .... as i hope that electronic music doesn't destroy the traditional live music that I know and love. 

Oh, and there is no hot water in hotels 😳..... cold water yes...but I guess thats just a British expectation.... and only an observation!!

The last few days, we have had an interpreter along with us to guide us through the river villages and communities  of the Rio Maranon. This, has been a privilege in so many ways. There is more to say here.. much much more... such as what was behind this photo...

Finally the wonderful folks of the river really know how to party.... and I mean .... all night /weekend rave style!! 

So much unyet so little too

Days seem to roll into one, up, packaway, breakfast, paddle, lunch, finish around 4-5pm, put up tent, change, snooze/blog ... then onto dinner around the camp fire. Bed. 

 

Normally, i am in bed by 8pm sometimes 9pm. A long way from my normal night owl hours! Having spent time in Antarctica, where night never comes (24hour sun/light); here, dark arrives by 6.30pm. I suspect, this is the cause of the early nights. Here, on the river bank, wecant turn on the lamp or light - aside from the head torch that has a very specific range and direction of light. I have to say, I have a headtorch but will only use it now in the tent as the light attracts bugs, flies, mosquitos and anything else to hand. Of course my face and hands are covered in deet .... orshould i say my burnt hands and face ..... 

The land around me had made a dramatic change over the last couple of days, trees have replaced the cactuses, green has replaced the barren sand and well even the soundsof the birds have changed along with the start of the high pitched sounds like grasshoppers in chorus. The tempreature too has risen with an increasing amount of humidity in the air. 

The jungle is near.... 

  

Days seem to roll into one, up, packaway, breakfast, paddle, lunch, finish around 4-5pm, put up tent, change, snooze/blog ... then onto dinner around the camp fire. Bed. 

 

Normally, i am in bed by 8pm sometimes 9pm. A long way from my normal night owl hours! Having spent time in Antarctica, where night never comes (24hour sun/light); here, dark arrives by 6.30pm. I suspect, this is the cause of the early nights. Here, on the river bank, wecant turn on the lamp or light - aside from the head torch that has a very specific range and direction of light. I have to say, I have a headtorch but will only use it now in the tent as the light attracts bugs, flies, mosquitos and anything else to hand. Of course my face and hands are covered in deet .... orshould i say my burnt hands and face ..... 

The land around me had made a dramatic change over the last couple of days, trees have replaced the cactuses, green has replaced the barren sand and well even the soundsof the birds have changed along with the start of the high pitched sounds like grasshoppers in chorus. The tempreature too has risen with an increasing amount of humidity in the air. 

The jungle is near.... 

  

P.s sorry, i have had to take off pictures as wifi is very very limited!

What a day!

Back in the Zel Gear Ik for a few days 😀 all was great until today when i missed a line and landed in a stopper - class 4 Rio Maranon stylee!  

 

Gasping i think we can call it. So, my first what i would now call A Stopper 😀 such an experience and great to come out the otherside. Of course at this point a number of folks will be tutting and shaking their heads saying 'I told you so' and in so many ways it is probably perceived to be worse because I am a female. But lets have a show of hands (all you guys) who have had the same experience??! Yep - thought so!! 

I have to say, I am trying harder rapids/part rapids and well suddenly its got a whole lot more fun, more giggles and well I am far more relaxed and enjoying it far more! The big waves (that are set to get even bigger means that, in the one I am even more exposed to the waves and literally fly!! Great fun! 

This pm we started the Wanson portage- a large rapid that even the raft wont go!. . Uber impressed with the safety   team who quite frankly did an blinkin amazing job - no upturned raft today! Uber slick operation. 

 

Hot hot hot and we finished at 7pm. Again, a day never to forget! 

 

The heart of Peru

One of the reasons that I enjoy solo so much is because often folks around let down their guard and most respond in a very different way to perhaps a group and even a pair or three. 

My interaction with others is different too especially the women. Yesterday there were two very familiar situations that had a very similar feel to my experience of hiking solo across the USA. 

To explain. I was on a portage - this was THE  big one and one that meant that I had to get hiking poles and trail shoes on.... and the rest!! Anyway, the setting: 

 

Stunning and a steeeeeeep short cut pointed out by the locals meant I found myself skiing down the hill towards the next town in double quick time!!! So quick I beat the support car to the town and I had gained another hour of hiking time.... which would get me to the next town! Result! Only problem was that i had arranged with the support car to meet them at the first  town.

Luckily there were a group of lovely women resting on the hill / entrance to the town. 

 

I know, I thought, I could ask them to explain to the support car that I had continued to Chocabamba and I would see them there! Easy! Errrr ummm.  But at least my pigeon spanish and sign language/ drama / re enactment of kayaking, car, sliding down the hill etc did create the women and me to giggle! Please note : we were at the top of the hill where kayaks are unknown, cars are seldom and well,  random solo British women dont usually turn up in a sweaty mess and jump around waving hands and feet to explain the journey (or request). However, as I left them - I hoped that it would all become clear when two 'amigos' in a car turned up. Sadly, the car didnt stop  and so how well my message would have been retold could only have been crystal clear.... of course. 

There is more to this story, left for another day or book but needless to say students, my tent, freeze dry food, support car heading to the next town for dinner and a hotel bed resulted in me being ushered and welcomed into the community and home of the town/village of the ladies that I seemed to have entertained just 1 hour before. 

 

Here, through my translating app, the children were able to ask many questions and I was able to show photos of my journey from the mountains, Antarctica, Cyprus, USA and beyond! I skim now, but there is a whole chapter on this event as I walked through the wall of mud. It was a truly magical experience and it was really lovely to re-meet and walk with the same students up the hill to school in the morning as though I was a familiar friend. Sadly, I had to put on hold the idea of me staying on to teach them English as I had an over 6000km journey to complete too. 

(Although I will say that these students were walking to school at 6.15am .... for a 7am start and 5pm finish!).

This made my huge portage very worth while.